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I don't know about now, but the gas company used to do this
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I don't know about now, but the gas company used to do this


Feb 8, 2014, 1:31 PM

stuff pretty reasonably. It was part of adding onto their business.

Now, the 220 wire is probably #10, or #8, 3 conductor with a ground, or maybe 2 conductor.

Usually, if it is 3 conductor, there will be a red, black, white, and a bare copper ground.

If it is 2 conductor, it is the same, missing the white.

The white is the neutral, which is not needed with 220 circuit.

For the 120 conversion, you have the choice of:

1.) using an existing 120 outlet circuit carried on to the gas stove control circuit. There is very little power required for the controls, so that is OK.

2.) If there is no easy access to a 120 outlet, you can use the red or black wire as the hot and the other as the neutral, replacing the two pole breaker with a single pole breaker, and connecting the neutral wire to the neutral strip in the breaker box. You can install another single pole breaker in the unused slot, as a spare.

I don't know that an home sale inspection would reveal this to be a code violation, because the only thing non-standard would be the colors of the conductors (120 circuits are black hot, white neutral, and bare copper ground in the US).

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"Every man is my superior, in that I may learn something from him."


This was for henry's post earlier.


Feb 8, 2014, 1:36 PM

I must have screwed up, thought I was replying to it.

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"Every man is my superior, in that I may learn something from him."


Great post anyway.***


Feb 8, 2014, 1:37 PM



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You're right.


Feb 8, 2014, 1:40 PM [ in reply to This was for henry's post earlier. ]

Things have changed since I replaced a 220 outlet in a double wide 30 years ago.

As long a a bare stays a ground and black feeds the power and the white remains neutral it will pass inspection and be safe to future persons dallying around in the panel.

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i know who this is for


Feb 8, 2014, 1:39 PM

and pulling the 110 from one leg of the 220 and changing breakers is what i planned on doing

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Why change the breaker?


Feb 8, 2014, 1:42 PM

And, while I'm asking, if you knew all this and have done copper tubing for gas why the devil did you start that thread? :)

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cause 50 amp 220 breaker would be a little overkill


Feb 8, 2014, 1:47 PM

and i will turn off the other 110 line
was looking for a little advice for another way or code stuff plus i think i'll contract out the gas part

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Yes, this is what I did at a fairly new house we lived in


Feb 8, 2014, 1:56 PM

before, in Simpsonville. The gas company ran the line, and I dropped in the new cooktop into the island. I used the extra wire to add an outlet to the end of the island, which was handy.

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One thing to consider, if the current wire is #8 (it should


Feb 9, 2014, 8:16 AM [ in reply to cause 50 amp 220 breaker would be a little overkill ]

be for a 50 amp electric stove), you will have a problem getting that #8 wire under the terminals on a 15 amp 120 volt receptacle; you will need to wire-nut a short piece of #12 to the #8 in your receptacle box in order to connect to the receptacle. The lug on the single pole breaker should be big enough to accommodate the #8.

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My man, could you tell us where to acquire said wire nuts


Feb 9, 2014, 11:24 AM

and wire?

;)

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Ho . . . Home Depot.


Feb 9, 2014, 11:53 AM

;)

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"Democracy is the theory that the common people know what they want, and deserve to get it good and hard."
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Only one leg of the breaker will be used, and it is designed


Feb 8, 2014, 1:47 PM [ in reply to Why change the breaker? ]

to trip on either leg overloading, so technically, it would work. It would just be the proper thing to do to install a single pole breaker for it. Breakers aren't expensive, anyway.

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Way to go into the detail!


Feb 8, 2014, 3:41 PM

;)

I told him he could do it, just be a code violation...that probably no home inspector would ever see (they don't open your breaker box and wouldn't open outlet covers)

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I was going to tmail a drawing if I needed to.


Feb 8, 2014, 5:26 PM

Gotta help when you can!

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"Every man is my superior, in that I may learn something from him."


The breaker is there to keep the wire from burning


Feb 8, 2014, 7:20 PM

The wire should be sized for the 50A breaker, and if there was a short in the new stove the breaker would protect just the same.

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You missed the part about it being a gas cooktop.


Feb 9, 2014, 11:23 AM

Therefore, no need for 50 amp circuit.

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Ive never known a home inspector to check wires


Feb 9, 2014, 9:10 AM

but your #2 would be a fairly common fix. The color of the wire does not mean anything to the electrons, and anybody messing with wiring ought to know what they are doing.

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Re: Ive never known a home inspector to check wires


Feb 9, 2014, 9:32 AM

In industrial you can color the wire anywhere it is visible in the box and it will pass code, do not know about residential.

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Re: Ive never known a home inspector to check wires


Feb 9, 2014, 9:34 AM [ in reply to Ive never known a home inspector to check wires ]

Reckon I now what I am doing and you should always stick to the color code. In older installations of residential wiring sometimes the fixture was heated and sometimes the switch was. Never touch anything without a meter.

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Call me old fashioned.


Feb 9, 2014, 9:23 AM

I recently installed a double wall oven (even built the cabinet for it... thank you Greenville Woodworkers Guild).

I went into the breaker box and put in a new 40 amp 220 breaker. Used a run of 8-3 wire to an enclosed junction box in the wall so there would never be any problem or confusion. Used wire nuts reinforced with electricians tape to make sure the connections are secure. All the wire colors are correct so even an idiot (like me) could figure out what I did.

I'm not being negative about anything anyone else does... all those ideas do work. Just my old fashioned way of doing things.

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That's good work.***


Feb 9, 2014, 11:26 AM



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