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YOUR BALANCE
For the one other gear head in here.
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For the one other gear head in here.


Mar 5, 2019, 11:30 AM

I posted this on Pelican Parts Mercedes form in response to a article about an automobile burning due to Jiffy Lube fouling up an oil change.

That would be the first time I ever saw engine oil burning a car.

Back in the early 1970s I had a 67 Chevy II which had a really powerful 327ci engine. 12.5/1 pistons, steel crank, pink rods, Phase III Z28 cam, aluminum intake with an 800 Holly double pumper carb, 300 double hump chevy heads with zero rocker arms, orange GM springs and a 3 angle valve job. Behind it was a 40lb flywheel, purple, Zoom pressure plate, clutch and a lakewood blowproof bell housing. Behind that was a super T10 Borg Warner trans w/ a 264 low gear.

Behind that was a BW power brute u joint, stock drive shaft with a safety loop then another power brute u joint. The rear diff was a 12 chevy with a 5.13/1 gear and pinion. AP headers made by JC Penny because no one else made headers for the car other than fenderwells for which I would not cut into the unibody frame.

The owner of a Vette smarted off to me on Friday night in front of a group of fine women and I told him I'd blow all four doors off that snail he drove. He couldn't back down so we line em up on a ~2 mi straight hwy between Harriman, TN and Oliver Springs.

My BNL who was going to flag and sent his wife to mark off a quarter mile. Off we went, I didn't even remove my headers. I did a 4k hole shot because he wouldn't let me put my 9" wrinklewalls on my car. When I hit second gear I hooked up and left that stock vette like it was sitting still. No, more like reverse. Some long tim after I hit 4th gear turning about 7200 rpm I realized I was chasing a pair of tail lights which were moving.

Three things had happened. My sister in law had turn around to go back and find out how to measure a quarter mile on an odometer, after we had adjusted the poly locks on the tip of the rocker arms my BNL who was tasked with the valve cover replacement on the left bank had put the new gasket on so that the rear didn't seal and the engine oil was pouring out onto the header on that side. I lost a qt of oil and most of it went to smoke on the left header sticking out of a small block chevy engine which had just run a mile wide open at 7200 rpm over 3/4th of that mile.

So no. there's no way the oil would have ignited from exhaust. Maybe a hot cat converter but not normal engine exhaust.

If anyone has seen [with their own eyes} oil start a fire by leaking out of an engine and pouring on exhaust please inform us so I can withdraw my, 'It ain't happened,' opinion.

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LOL...your trash talking reminded me of my grandfather


Mar 5, 2019, 11:38 AM

Back around 1980 or so, my grandfather had a 1974 Porsche 914 (NB4 "not a real Porsche") and he'd take me riding around Greenville.

One day some kids pulled up next to him in a 240Z or something I can't quite remember, and started trying to egg him on to race. He looked at their car from bumper to bumper, and then said "Hey kid, how many people died in that wreck?"

I still LOL over that one.

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That's why a young man buys, or builds, a fast car.


Mar 5, 2019, 11:55 AM

It was all about the t.n.u.c. back then.

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a 4 door vette?


Mar 5, 2019, 11:38 AM

Depends on the oil weight I'd think. Diesel is an oil, and I've seen a lot of diesel fires. I've seen oil burn on headers before that had the timing advanced pretty high, so I'd think it *could* burn a car to the ground.

While she was in college, my sister had a POS VW beetle that threw a rod somewhere around Orangeburg driving back to U5C. After getting out of the car, she realized what had happened, and remembered she had full coverage insurance. She threw a lit mach in the carb air horn, and the hole in the block and tins had thrown so much oil everywhere, it put out the match. Even on the second try.

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Robinson garage on hwy 135 in Easley used engine oil...


Mar 5, 2019, 11:51 AM

to heat their shop. They drilled a hole in the top of an old pot belly stove, ran some coiled copper wire between it and a quart can and lit motor oil as it dripped into the stove. Engine oil will burn but just like diesel, it either needs high compression or a hot fire to burn it.

Headers get much hotter than cast iron. Part of the header's job is to collect and dissipate heat as the engine fan pushes it across them. Headers will turn red but they won't start a fire unless something is against them which has a much lower flash point that oil.

BTW, 4 door was the ultimate uncool car back in the 1970s. 1970 was BMV, before minivans.




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Not sure what to tell you.


Mar 5, 2019, 12:17 PM

I've seen it burn on a header, because it was on my car. 1982 Mustang GT that had a warmed up 302 in it. I put Do0Z heads milled .020, and Hedman stainless headers.

Those heads used the old cork gaskets with keepers on the valve covers. If you used too much RTV, or tightened the valve cover bolts too much, it would either squeeze out the cork gasket, or the RTV, or both. I bet I replaced 10 sets of valve cover gaskets on that thing until I finally found some rubber gaskets with steel bolt inserts.

Because Ford heads breath like chit on the exhaust even when they are ported, I put a cam in with a pretty high overlap and high lift to scavenge some exhaust gases. Because of that, that the engine didn't make much vaccum, at least not enough to sufficiently scavenge the block of back pressure through the PCV from the carburetor valve body plate. That was another reason I was blowing out cork valve cover gaskets.

It was a 10-10.5:1 CR engine at that point, so to get it to run worth a crap I had to run av-gas in it. With av gas I could crank up the timing about 10-12 degrees additional, but it made the engine run hotter as well as the exhaust temps were higher.

Add together a leaking valve cover gasket on an almost red stainless header after a couple quick passes, and you get a liquid fire as it drips to the ground.

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I stand corrected.


Mar 5, 2019, 4:58 PM

I spent weekends at Bristol, 411 drag strip in Knoxville and the short track in Crossville called Dragway and a few local round tracks back then and never saw an oil fire.

American had a non leaded fuel we called white gas. The octane was 103. Folks used it for Coleman lantern. I advanced my timing a bit but that's more a trick to make the rev quicker. It would make a street car run a little better in an eighth but it limited the top end power a bit.

The cam in my car wouldn't allow for much timing advance. It dieseled when it was set with a light on spec. I had to put it in first gear and ease the clutch out to prevent the dieseling.

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I tried white gas once.


Mar 5, 2019, 5:11 PM

Emptied a gallon can of dad's Coleman lantern fuel into an almost empty fuel tank and tried to race it. Thing sputtered and spit like it was running on water. My dad got mad at me because at the time, it was about 3 times the cost of a gallon gas. I didn't have the compression to need it anyway, even with the timing advanced way high. The av-gas was probably 105(?) octane, but it did run pretty good because it was still leaded and didn't cause any dieseling problems.

And you are correct about the timing advance in the 1/8th; That's all I ever ran in. That's as long as the track was I used to run at: Cooper River Drag strip. Good (and bad) thing about the 1/8 is that it really magnifies your reaction times--and if you ran in a bracket, you could win if you have similar reaction times and top end speeds with out busting your bracket. I was just doing heads up/grudge racing and there were no brackets for that, but it was fun to watch before us non-pro's got the track around midnight.

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why get an oil change at jiffy lube? first mistake


Mar 5, 2019, 12:12 PM

The best oil changes happen in your driveway

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Driveway?


Mar 5, 2019, 12:13 PM

Naw man, straddle the ditch. Who wants oil draining straight onto your driveway?

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Much like cutting grass, I've graduated from doing my own


Mar 5, 2019, 12:21 PM [ in reply to why get an oil change at jiffy lube? first mistake ]

oil changes. It used to be because no one seemed to know how to do them right, until I just started taking it to the dealer to do it. Sure, it's not the $29.95 Wal Mart oil change, but I don't have to worry if they remembered to put oil back in when I leave, either.

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Time versus missed work/pay. That's the equasion I make.


Mar 5, 2019, 5:40 PM

Installed my own toilets. Took all of 20 minutes. Saved $200 for plumber. Worth it.

Oil change....takes 30+ minutes, plus you get dirty so shower and/or wash up, etc. Saves $40. NOT worth it.

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My best oil change came in a boat...


Mar 5, 2019, 5:04 PM [ in reply to why get an oil change at jiffy lube? first mistake ]

and so did the children's mother and I.

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